SKIN CARE
INGREDIENTS – WHAT DO THEY MEAN
You’re at the cosmetic
counter at the mall, looking to invest in a few new products for your skin.
You choose several products and compare the ingredients, but you ask
yourself, what is hyaluronic acid? Or, you’re at the drugstore and notice
your cleanser has new packaging with headlines such as “antioxidant-rich”
and ingredients such as kinetin and Vitamin A. You ask yourself, is it still
good for my skin?
Gone are the days when
skincare products were simply categorized for dry, normal or oily skin. Over
the past decade, products have (and continue to) evolved with sophisticated
new formulas and ingredients that can mimic products and treatments once
found only in dermatologist’s offices. Here is a quick guideline on how to
decipher the current list of 50-cent words on product labels.
Antioxidants
Chemicals that halt
the oxidation of cells and ward off free radicals, unstable electrons that
lead to cell breakdown. Cell breakdown leads to fine lines, loss of moisture
and elasticity, dull, rough appearance and discoloration. Common
antioxidants used in skincare are Vitamins A, C, E and K.
Alpha Hydoxy Acids (AHAs)
A group of chemical
compounds that can occur naturally or chemically that can help reduce aging
and wrinkling and improve the skin’s look and texture. AHAs include
glycolic (the most commonly used in skincare), malic, citric, tartaric and
lactic.
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)
A mild acid that helps
with the sloughing of dead skin cells that can clog pores and deep cleans
without over drying. The most common BHA is salicylic acid.
Coenzyme Q10
A fat-soluble
antioxidant with a similar structure to Vitamin K. Plays an important role
in preventing cell breakdown and promotes cell renewal and an increase of
hydration, moisture and cell revitalization.
Hyaluronic Acid
A jelly-like substance
that occurs naturally in the soft connective tissues of all living
substances and can also occur in some cartilage and joint fluids and skin
tissue. Hyaluronic acid holds moisture within the collagen and elastin of
the skin and can hold 1000 times its weight in water.
Hydroquinone
A powerful, topical
lightening ingredient that was once available only in dermatologist’s
offices. Over the counter products only allow up to 2% of this ingredient.
When using hydroquinone, one must use it on a three-months on, three-months
off basis, or as soon as discoloration is less noticeable.
Kinetin
A botanical-based
ingredient found in plants, which helps plants to retain water. When used in
skincare products, kinetin helps treat the signs of photo-aging and restore
the skin’s moisture barrier.
Idebenone
Pronounced “ee-dee-bee-known”,
its structure is similar to Coenzyme Q10 but its function is more powerful.
Along with the treatment of wrinkles, idebenone has been successful in both
cerebral and some organ studies.
