Anti-Aging Ingredients in Skin Care and Cosmetics

There are hundreds of skincare products that claim to be anti-aging and rejuvenating. The buzz around purported skin rejuvenators like anti-oxidants, anti-inflammatories, nutritional supplements and photo-stable sunscreens is intriguing but can seem overwhelming.

No cream, lotion or serum can completely stop or reverse the skin’s aging process. However, there are certain products that show promise - and have scientific research to back up their claims. Antioxidants and broad-spectrum sunscreens can truly rejuvenate the skin. The key is finding the products that work best for your skin type—and using them correctly. 

What are Antioxidants?
Some of the most researched and well-known antioxidants are ingredients like Vitamins A, C, and E; flavonoids; beta carotene; glutathione; selenium; and zinc. Antioxidants serve a very specific purpose: to lessen the damage caused by free radicals. Each time your skin or body reacts to a perceived trauma (basically stress or increased oxygen intake), free radicals are produced. Cigarette smoking, sunlight, pollution and foods high in bad fats and sugar all lead to increased levels of free radicals.

Why are Free Radicals Bad?
All extrinsic skin aging can be attributed to oxidation and free radical damage. Free radicals cause the breakdown of the skin’s structure, leading to wrinkles, rough skin, dehydration and an eventual loss of elasticity, resilience. The antioxidants found in food (fruits and vegetables), supplements and topical treatments work together to mitigate the damage caused by free radicals.

Tried and True Antioxidants: Vitamins A, C, E
These antioxidants are backed by the most research and have a history of efficacy in skin rejuvenation. The increasingly sophisticated delivery systems and formulations these antioxidants are used in make them especially potent and stable.  

Vitamin C :

Vitamin E :

Vitamin A :

Keep in mind that packaging can make or break the potency of antioxidants like Vitamin C and Retinol. Because any exposure to air causes oxidation, products packaged in jars or translucent tubes won’t be stable.  

While Vitamins A, C and E are the big players; there are other antioxidants that can benefit the skin. Article 2 in this series will take a look at some of the current latest antioxidant ingredients to hit the skincare market.  

The previous article introduced Vitamins A, C and E as the big players; there are other antioxidants that can benefit the skin. Let’s take a look at some of the current latest antioxidant ingredients to hit the skincare market.  

ALA (Alpha Lipoic Acid) : Studies show that when taken a supplement, ALA has many potential health benefits. As a skincare ingredient, it can diminish the appearance of wrinkles and help firm the skin. ALA also helps with puffiness and under-eye bags.  

Idebenone: This antioxidant has been used for pharmaceutical purposes for years. Recently it’s been touted as one of the most potent antioxidants available. Research suggests that Idebenone helps skin lipids defend themselves from free radical damage and degradation. Idebenone is structurally similar to CoQ10.  

GABA (Gama Amino Butyric Acid): When added to treatment creams, this amino acid is supposed to simulate a Botox-like effect. It may help to smooth fine lines, wrinkles and crows feet around the eyes and mouth, and between the brows.  

Kinetin is a naturally occurring plant growth hormone proven to slow the aging process in plant cells. When used in skincare products, Kinetin helps improve skin texture, lighten hyperpigmentation and even-out blotchy skin. Kinetin is considered a gentler alternative to prescription Retinoids.  

Olive Oil and human skin both contain squalane, an ingredient that oxygenates and nourishes cells. Therefore, olive oil-based products give your skin a nutrient boost. Olive oil is also packed with vitamins and free radical killing antioxidants. The Japanese and Italians have used pure olive oil as a beauty booster for centuries.  

Polyphenols and Anti-inflammatories
In Wrinkle Free Forever, noted dermatologist Howard Murad talks about the damage caused by inflammation. Examples of skin inflammation include: allergic reactions, acne, flushing, hives, and the symptoms associated with disorders like Rosacea and Psoriasis. Inflammation is a sign that the body is attempting to protect itself from trauma. Over time, this protection backfires, creating an excessive amount of free radicals and leading to water loss in the skin cells. What can help halt this process, Murad says, are antioxidants that double as topical anti-inflammatories. Murad suggests that polyphenols (plant derived antioxidants) are especially beneficial.  

Polyphenols

Sources of polyphenols include green tea, white tea, grape seed extract, olive oil, dark chocolate, and pomegranates. Here’s how they work:

Other inflammation-reducing ingredients to look for in skincare products include:

AHAs: Promoting Product Penetration
Remember that AHAs and prescription retinoids make your skin more susceptible to photo-damage. Be vigilant about using sunscreen and limiting your overall UV.  

Finally, hydration is a cornerstone to beautiful and youthful skin. In addition to the fighting free radicals with antioxidants and sunscreen, make sure that you add hydrating ingredients to your skin. The following ingredients will keep the skin moist and are suitable for all skin types:  

Above all, healthy lifestyle is a key component in your anti-aging regimen. In addition to incorporating the antioxidants and sun protection that best suit your skin type, proper nutrition, adequate sleep and emotional balance will do wonders for your skin.